I had no particular expectations for Slovenia. Vienna and Prague are world famous, Ljubljana was just a stop on the way. It ended up being the surprise of the whole Interrail trip.
What struck me first is how walkable the city is. Ljubljana feels designed for people before cars. I felt good there, and I felt safe. We ate well, we drank well, and it is a beautiful city that stays simple and affordable.
Ljubljana overview
How we got there: by train, with our Interrail pass, after a stop at Lake Bled.
How long we stayed: about a day and a half. It was not enough.
How long I would stay: two full days.
Where to stay in Ljubljana
Dragons Dream Hostel, a capsule hotel
It was funny to find a Japanese concept in the middle of Slovenia.
What I liked: it is really cheap, very comfortable, and the bed was big enough for two people.
Location: a little outside the centre, but with a bus stop right in front. The historic centre is 8 minutes away.
What could be better: the air conditioning did not work well, and the bathrooms were only cleaned quickly in the morning.
Things to know before you go
- Walk. The historic centre is very pedestrian friendly, you will do everything on foot.
- Stay outside the centre and take the bus. It is much cheaper, and the connection is quick.
- Cards are accepted almost everywhere, except at the market. Bring some cash for it.
Getting around by bus
A single bus ride costs €1.50 and covers up to 90 minutes, even if you change buses. The easiest option is the Urbana card: it costs €2, you top it up, and one card can pay for several people. You can also tap a Visa or Mastercard on the bus, but then transfers within 90 minutes are not free. Buy the Urbana card at a Tourist Information Centre and keep the receipt: you can return it at the end of your stay and get your €2 back.
Best things to do in Ljubljana
The Central Market
My favourite playground for street photography.
The market is organised by category: food in the centre, flowers in a small alley, and clothes on the side.
Good to know: the market was designed by the architect Jože Plečnik, and runs from Monday to Saturday, from 7am to 3pm. Mornings are the busiest, and the best time for photos.
The flea market
I also went to a flea market in Ljubljana, on a Sunday morning by the river. It is very much about antiques: tableware, jewellery, old objects.
Good to know: the Sunday Flea Market takes place every Sunday from 8am to 3pm, on Breg street along the Ljubljanica. Exhibitors may leave early if it rains. During the festive season it moves to Congress Square.
Second hand shopping
Ljubljana is also a good city for second hand finds. I bought my The North Face jacket at Relay of Youth Vintage, for €50.
Relay of Youth Vintage: Trubarjeva cesta 16, in the centre. Vintage and second hand clothing, open every day. The name is a nod to the Relay of Youth, the youth celebration of former Yugoslavia.
Walk along the river
We walked along the quays of the Ljubljanica. We were there during the Ljubljana Festival, with musicians in traditional costume playing by the river.
Ljubljana Castle
We took the funicular up to the castle, and walked back down through the woods.
Good to know: the funicular leaves from Krek Square (Krekov trg), next to the Puppet Theatre, and the ride takes about a minute. The castle grounds are free to walk around. You only pay for the funicular, the viewing tower and the exhibitions. You can also pay the funicular with the Urbana card.
The old town and the bridges
This is where I filmed the most: the small streets of the historic centre, and the bridges.
Bridges to look for: the Triple Bridge, next to Prešeren Square, the Dragon Bridge with its four dragons, and the Butchers' Bridge.
Where to eat and drink in Ljubljana
Kodila Gourmet & Bistro Market
Right by the Central Market, under Plečnik's arcades. We had čevapčiči, the small grilled sausages served in bread.
And the surprise of the day: an emu walking between the tables on the terrace.
REX Tiskarna
Dunajska cesta 123, next to our capsule hotel. Pizza and pasta. There was a one plus one free offer on pizzas, and I had truffle pasta and a burratina.
Spritz everywhere
Hugo, Aperol, and the rest. We had spritzes a bit everywhere.
If you have more time
Ideas for next time, that I have not done yet:
- Metelkova, the alternative art quarter covered in street art.
- Tivoli Park, the big green park at the edge of the centre.
- Lake Bled, one hour away. Read my Lake Bled guide.
Ljubljana FAQ
Is Ljubljana worth visiting?
Yes. It is walkable, safe, affordable, and it was the surprise of my trip.
How many days in Ljubljana?
Two full days.
Is Ljubljana expensive?
It felt affordable to me, especially if you stay outside the centre.
Do I need cash in Ljubljana?
Mostly for the market. Cards work almost everywhere else, even on the bus.
How much is the bus in Ljubljana?
€1.50 for a ride of up to 90 minutes. With the Urbana card, changes are included.
When is the flea market in Ljubljana?
Every Sunday, from 8am to 3pm, along the river.
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