We went to Cefalù for the day from Palermo, in March 2026, by train.
Cefalù is much more touristy and much more polished than Palermo. It is also very pretty.
How to get to Cefalù from Palermo
By train, from Palermo Centrale. Regional trains take about 45 minutes to an hour, and the station in Cefalù is a ten-minute walk from the old town and the sea.
Good to know: it is a cheap ride, a few euros each way, and trains run through the day. Buy at the machine in the station and validate before boarding.
What to do in Cefalù
The old town and the sea
The old town is small, wedged between the beach and the rock. You can walk all of it in an afternoon, and that is the point.







The cathedral
The Norman cathedral dominates the square, with its two towers and its golden mosaics inside. It is part of the Arab-Norman Palermo UNESCO listing.
Good to know: entering the church is free. Seeing the Christ Pantocrator mosaics up close, climbing the towers and visiting the cloister is a paid itinerary, and access to the mosaics closes during services. The cathedral joined the UNESCO list in 2015.

La Rocca
The rock above the town, with the ruins of a medieval castle at the top and the so called Temple of Diana halfway up.
Good to know: five euros, two fifty reduced, free for residents. The path starts on Corso Ruggero, then Via Saraceni, with the ticket office a little further up. Open from 8am to 7pm with last entry at 5pm, until 8pm in summer and 5pm in winter. Count thirty to forty five minutes up if you are quick, closer to two hours if you stop.
My advice: the climb is almost entirely in full sun, so avoid the middle of the day in summer. Late afternoon gives the best light on the red roofs and the cathedral.
The medieval wash house
The Lavatoio Medievale, down a stone staircase off Via Vittorio Emanuele, where water still runs through the stone basins. It is free, it takes five minutes, and it is one of the images of the town.
Porta Pescara and the old harbour
The old sea gate, with the fishing boats pulled up on the shingle and the cathedral behind. It is the view everyone photographs, and it is best in the morning.
The Mandralisca Museum
A few steps from the cathedral, with the Portrait of an Unknown Man by Antonello da Messina, one of the famous faces of the Italian Renaissance. Mandralisca is said to have found it on Lipari, where it was being used as a cupboard door.
The beach
The Spiaggia di Cefalù runs right along the old town, white sand and clear water, with bars renting out umbrellas and loungers.
Breakfast at Cathedral Coffee
Piazza del Duomo 2, with the tables right in front of the cathedral. We had breakfast there: coffee and a pistachio croissant, with the two Norman towers in front of us.
Good to know: open from 7am to 11pm, closed on Mondays. You are paying partly for the view on the square, and the service can be slow when it fills up.

Lunch at Taverna Tinchité
Via XXV Novembre 37, in the old town. This is where we had the pasta a taianu, the dish of Cefalù.
Good to know: the taianu is a Cefalù speciality, baked pasta with meat, aubergine and cheese, named after the pot it is cooked in. The taverna is open every day from noon to 10:30pm, it is busy, and there is often a queue for a table.


Is Cefalù worth it?
Yes, for a day. It is prettier than Palermo and far more polished, which also means more tourists and less life. As a day trip from Palermo, it works perfectly.
Cefalù FAQ
How do you get from Palermo to Cefalù?
By train from Palermo Centrale, about 45 minutes to an hour.
How long do you need in Cefalù?
A day is enough, including the climb up La Rocca.
How much does it cost to climb La Rocca?
Five euros, and the path starts from Corso Ruggero.
When should you climb La Rocca?
Late afternoon. There is almost no shade, and the light on the roofs is best at the end of the day.
Is Cefalù touristy?
Yes, much more than Palermo, and much more polished.
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