Naples was the first stop of our Italy trip in October 2024, before Florence and Venice. We were there on 8 and 9 October.
Naples is dirty and intimidating. It is also very cool for street photography.
Naples overview
When: 8 and 9 October 2024.
How long we stayed: two days, and it was not enough.
How long I would stay: three days, I think, but I am not sure. I did not get to see enough of the city.
Our arrival: four hours late, in a storm
Our flight was four hours late. Instead of landing at 2pm, we arrived at 6pm, in the middle of a storm. That first evening was written off.
Good to know: from the airport, the Alibus shuttle goes to the central station and the port for about €5, in 15 to 35 minutes. A taxi is a fixed fare, around €25.
The pizza that was not the one
We had a pizza. It was not very good, and we were treated like dirt on top of it: seated in a cold corner of the restaurant with no phone signal, and a very long wait.
What I would do differently: book, or go to one of the pizzerias people actually queue for, and go early. In the city where pizza was invented, a bad pizza feels like a waste of a meal.
The morning that saved Naples for me
The next morning we got up early, took a taxi up to the heights of the city, and walked all the way back down to the station through the alleys. That was much nicer.
Good to know: the heights are the Vomero hill. You do not need a taxi: three funiculars go up from the city centre, and they are included in the normal transport ticket, around €1.50 to €1.80 for 90 minutes. At the top, Castel Sant'Elmo has the best view over Naples, the bay and Vesuvius, for about €5, and the Certosa di San Martino sits right next to it.
Walking down through the alleys
This is where Naples becomes something else. The alleys are still full of workshops and small trades, and that is my photo spot in this city.
Good to know: the spine of the old town is Spaccanapoli, the straight street that cuts the historic centre in two. Walk it first thing in the morning, before the scooters take over.
Just off Spaccanapoli, Via San Gregorio Armeno is the street of the nativity figure workshops, open all year. The alleys around it are full of small trades: baskets, ceramics, food stalls.
Getting to Florence
From Naples, we took the train to Florence. Fast trains do it in about three hours, from Napoli Centrale to Firenze Santa Maria Novella.
How many days in Naples?
Three days, I think. With two, and a storm, I did not see enough.
Naples FAQ
Is Naples worth visiting?
Yes, especially if you photograph. It is dirty and intimidating, and it is one of the best cities I know for street photography.
How many days in Naples?
Three days, to have time for the centre, the heights and a day trip.
What is the best area for photography in Naples?
The alleys of the old town, which are still full of workshops and small trades.
How do you get from the airport to Naples?
The Alibus shuttle to the central station, for about €5.
How do you get up to the top of Naples?
By funicular from the centre, included in the normal transport ticket, to the Vomero hill and Castel Sant'Elmo.
Read next
More from Italy:
- Burano travel guide: coloured houses, lace and a spritz
- Cefalù travel guide: a day trip from Palermo
- Florence travel guide: sunrise over the city, the Boboli Gardens and vintage shopping
- Lake Como travel guide: Varenna, Bellagio and Menaggio
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