We were in Osaka from 6 to 10 November 2025, with a day trip to Nara in the middle, and a 6am train to Tokyo on the last morning. So three full days in the city.
What I liked is the contrast: the castle on one side, Dotonbori on the other, and in between a much quieter city.
Osaka overview
When: 6 to 10 November 2025.
How long we stayed: three days, which felt right.
Where we slept: an Airbnb.
How we got around: on foot.
Best things to do in Osaka
Walk outside the tourist quarter
This is what I would tell anyone: just walk, away from the tourist streets. Osaka is far more than Dotonbori.
Osaka Castle
Good to know: the park around the castle is free and open all day. The keep itself costs 600 yen, and it is a reconstruction with a museum inside and a viewing deck at the top. The park is at its best early, before the groups.
Dotonbori
The neon, the canal, the Glico running man, the giant crab. It is worth seeing, but it is one street, and it is not the city.
Good to know: it is at its most photogenic after dark, when all the signs are lit, and at its worst in the early evening, when it is packed.
Vintage shopping
Osaka has a lot of vintage shops, and it is the reason I am writing a separate guide about them. Second hand luxury in particular: bags, wallets, jewellery, at prices you will not find in Europe.
My advice: if you love vintage, save your wallet for Osaka. Do not spend it all in Tokyo.
The Pokémon Centers
I am a Pokémon fan, so this was not optional. I did not do the café, but I came out with plush toys.
Good to know: Osaka has two Pokémon Centers.
- Pokémon Center Osaka DX, on the 9th floor of the Daimaru Shinsaibashi Main Building, connected underground to exit 4 of Shinsaibashi station. Open 10am to 8pm. It is the experience store, with the themed displays, and the Pokémon Café right next door.
- Pokémon Center Osaka, on the 13th floor of LUCUA 1100 in Umeda, five minutes from Osaka station. Bigger, more stock, the card counter, and Nintendo Osaka on the same floor. This is the one for a serious haul.
Both carry Kansai exclusives you will not find in Tokyo, which is worth knowing if you are doing both cities.
The Pokémon Café, which we skipped, is reservation only, no walk-ins. Bookings open at 6pm Japan time, exactly 31 days before the date you want, online and in English, and the good slots go in the first minutes. Weekday lunchtimes are the easiest.
The manhole covers
Painted differently from one district to the next, and worth looking down for.
Where we ate: Iccho
A tiny yakitori counter in Higashishinsaibashi, run by a couple in their seventies and eighties. We found it by chance, and it was the best meal of our stay.
Good to know: Iccho seats eight people at a counter, opens from 6pm to 10pm, and is closed on Sundays. It is cash only, with a seat charge of 330 yen per person and one drink per person. Book ahead if you can: it fills up fast.
Where we drank: Common
1-12-24 Shimanouchi, Chuo-ku, and @common_mami on Instagram. The wine bar next to our Airbnb, where we celebrated our eight years together.
Things to know before you go
- Go beyond Dotonbori. Osaka is much more than that one street.
- Save your vintage budget for Osaka, rather than Tokyo.
- Walk. The centre is flat and dense, and the good parts are between the sights.
How many days in Osaka?
Three days was good, with a day trip to Nara on top.
Osaka FAQ
How many days do you need in Osaka?
Three days in the city itself is a good amount, plus a day for Nara.
Is Dotonbori worth it?
Yes, once, at night. But it is one street, and Osaka is much bigger than that.
Where should you go vintage shopping in Japan?
Osaka. Keep your budget for it rather than spending it in Tokyo.
How much is Osaka Castle?
The park is free, the keep is 600 yen.
Is there a Pokémon Center in Osaka?
Two: the DX store at Daimaru Shinsaibashi, next to the Pokémon Café, and the bigger one on the 13th floor of LUCUA 1100 in Umeda.
Do you need to book the Pokémon Café?
Yes. It is reservation only, and bookings open at 6pm Japan time, 31 days before.
Where to drink wine in Osaka?
Common, at 1-12-24 Shimanouchi, in Chuo-ku, on Instagram at @common_mami.
Where to eat yakitori in Osaka?
Iccho, in Higashishinsaibashi, a counter with eight seats run by an older couple. Cash only, closed on Sundays.
Read next
More from Japan:
- Arashiyama travel guide: go before sunrise
- Kawaguchiko travel guide: up at 4:30am to see Mount Fuji
- Kyoto travel guide: sunrise at Fushimi Inari, and a bathhouse for lunch
- Nara travel guide: a day trip from Osaka, with the deer
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