Palermo travel guide: markets, street food and a wine bar worth the trip

We were in Palermo from 23 to 27 March 2026, with my boyfriend, with a day trip to Cefalù in the middle.

Palermo reminded me of Naples. I liked it a lot, especially the markets.

Palermo overview

When: 23 to 27 March 2026.

How long we stayed: five days, with one day in Cefalù.

Our rhythm: walk, photograph, eat and drink, on repeat.

What I would do differently: do Sicily as a ten-day road trip and go all the way round the island.

Where to stay in Palermo

We stayed at Calamarina Centro, in the historic centre, a few minutes from Via Maqueda and the Quattro Canti.

Check prices and availability at Calamarina Centro

Best things to do in Palermo

The markets

This is what I liked most in Palermo, and the Mercato del Capo is the one to go to.

Good to know: the Capo runs along Via Porta Carini, in the Capo quarter, and works every morning, best before noon. Palermo's other historic markets are Ballarò, the biggest and the most working-class, and the Vucciria, quiet by day and a drinking spot at night.

Walking and looking up

The old town is layered: baroque facades, peeling palaces, laundry, and light coming down into the alleys.

Breakfast at Ideal Caffè Stagnitta

Discesa dei Giudici 42, just off Via Vittorio Emanuele. A coffee roaster since 1922, where we had breakfast: brioche and pistachio coffee.

Good to know: they roast their own beans, and the espresso is one of the best in the city. Open 7am to 7pm, closed on Sundays.

Brioche and pistachio coffee at Ideal Caffè Stagnitta

Eating your way through the rest of the day

Something fried at a market stall at noon, a pizza in the evening.

Good to know: Palermo is a street food city. The classics are panelle (chickpea fritters), arancine (the rice balls, feminine here, unlike in Catania), sfincione (the local spongy pizza) and, for the brave, pane con la milza, the spleen sandwich.

Book a street food and history walking tour

Nni Franco U Vastiddaru, for a sandwich

Via Vittorio Emanuele 102, by the fountain. A Palermo street food institution, with tables outside. I had ham, cheese and salad on bread.

Good to know: open from 9am to 11pm or later. It is table service, with a small cover charge per person, and the place is busy, so the wait can be long when it fills up.

Le Granite di Nonna Angelina, for a gelato spritz

Via Vittorio Emanuele 393. A tiny granita bar where we had a gelato spritz. Good, and cheap.

Good to know: open from 9am to 7pm. It is a family place with almost no English spoken, so a few words of Italian go a long way. Granitas, gelato and fresh orange juice, at prices that have nothing to do with the terraces on the main squares.

Timilia, for pizza

Via Maqueda 221, right on the main pedestrian street. Surprisingly delicious for such a touristy street.

Good to know: they are open all day, from 11:30am to midnight, later at the weekend, and they do a gluten-free pizza that people come back for. There is a table service charge, so do not be surprised by the bill.

Where to drink: dal Barone

Via Alessandro Paternostro 87, in the Kalsa. A tiny natural wine bar, where you sit outside on the kerb with a glass and a board of cheese and cured meats.

Good to know: the wines are Sicilian and natural, the owner knows every bottle, and it is open in the evening from 6pm, plus lunchtimes at the weekend. It is closed on Fridays.

A day trip to Cefalù

We took the train for the day. It has its own guide here: Cefalù travel guide.

Or book a half day trip to Monreale and Cefalù

How many days in Palermo?

Five days felt right for the city and one day trip. But if I went back, I would do the whole island in ten days, by car.

Palermo FAQ

Is Palermo worth visiting?
Yes. It reminded me of Naples, and the markets are the best part.

Which market should you go to in Palermo?
The Mercato del Capo, in the morning.

How many days in Palermo?
Five days with a day trip, or better, ten days for the whole island by car.

Where to drink wine in Palermo?
Dal Barone, in the Kalsa, for natural Sicilian wine and a board of cheese and cured meats.