Venice travel guide: get up early, before the city fills up

Venice was the last stop of our Italy trip in October 2024, after Naples and Florence. We were there on 11 and 12 October.

I fell in love with Venice.

Venice overview

When: 11 and 12 October 2024.

How long we stayed: two days.

How we got around: on foot.

How long I would stay: three to four days.

Where to stay in Venice

We stayed at the Residenza San Maurizio, in the San Marco sestiere, a few minutes from the Accademia bridge and about ten from Saint Mark's Square.

Check prices and availability at Residenza San Maurizio

Best things to do in Venice

Walk the alleys, early

The alleys are my photo spot in Venice, and the whole point is to be out before everyone else.

My advice: get up early. Venice at 7am and Venice at 11am are not the same city.

If you want a gondola, book a Grand Canal ride

A lamppost on the lagoon at breakfast time

A day trip to Burano

The island of coloured houses, out in the lagoon, is the other place I photographed the most. It has its own guide here: Burano travel guide.

Book a guided trip to Murano and Burano

Where to eat and drink in Venice

Ristoteca Oniga

Dorsoduro 2852, on Campo San Barnaba, next to the Ca' Rezzonico waterbus stop. A seafood place on a small square, and one of the best meals of our trip.

Good to know: the kitchen is Venetian and regional, built around organic produce and small local producers, with a lot of Slow Food certified ingredients and fish from the market every morning. Their signature dish is the Bucintoro, named after the doges' state barge: clams, mussels, prawns, calamari, queen scallops and the catch of the day, with spaghetti and toasted bread. They are open every day from noon to 11pm, and you book by phone. The dining room is small, so call ahead.

I had lobster pasta there.

Dorsoduro in general is where you find the good tables, away from the tourist route.

The practical side of Venice

The access fee

Since 2024, day visitors pay a contributo di accesso to enter the historic centre on the busiest days. In 2026 it applied on 60 days between 3 April and 26 July, from 8:30am to 4pm: 5 euros booked at least five days ahead, 10 euros last minute, with fines from 50 to 300 euros if you are checked without a code.

Who does not pay: anyone sleeping in the municipality of Venice, Mestre included, and children under 14. You still register for a free QR code. Arriving after 4pm on a chargeable day also avoids it.

Where: only on the official portal, cda.ve.it. Check the calendar before you travel, the dates change every year.

The vaporetto

A single ride is 9.50 euros and lasts 75 minutes. If you plan to use the boats, a day pass from around 25 euros is far better value.

My advice: in the centre, walk. The vaporetto earns its price for the islands and the Grand Canal, not for crossing a city you can cross on foot.

Saint Mark's, if you want to see it

Since 2025 the basilica is ticketed and booked in advance, around 10 euros for the church and more with the Pala d'Oro, the museum and the terrace with the bronze horses. The campanile is separate, around 15 euros. The Doge's Palace goes with the Saint Mark's Square museums ticket, cheaper booked a month ahead and valid three months.

Book early: the Secret Itineraries tour of the palace sells out four to six weeks ahead, the basilica and the campanile two to four weeks.

Book a Doge's Palace entry ticket

Or a guided tour of Saint Mark's Basilica and the Doge's Palace

Things to know before you go

Get up early. It is the single best piece of advice I can give for Venice.
Walk. The centre is small, and the vaporetto is mostly useful for the islands.
Check the tides in autumn. October to December is the acqua alta season, when high water can flood the lowest squares for a few hours.

How many days in Venice?

Three to four days, with one of them for the islands.

Venice FAQ

How many days in Venice?
Three to four days, including a day for Burano and Murano.

How much is the vaporetto in Venice?
€9.50 for a single ticket valid 75 minutes, €25 for 24 hours. For an island day, take the pass.

When is the best time of day in Venice?
Early morning. The alleys are empty and the light is soft.

Do you have to pay to enter Venice?
Day visitors do, on around 60 designated days a year, from 8:30am to 4pm. If you sleep in Venice, you are exempt but still register for a free code.

How much is the vaporetto?
9.50 euros for a single ride valid 75 minutes, or a day pass from about 25 euros.

Do you need to book Saint Mark's Basilica?
Yes, it has been ticketed and pre-booked since 2025.

Where to stay in Venice?
We stayed at the Residenza San Maurizio, in San Marco.